I don’t think I’ve ever met a person who tried surfing and didn’t like it. The buzz you get when you catch your first wave lying down, never mind standing up and riding it, is totally addictive.
When it comes to the best places to learn to surf, not everywhere is ideal. If you’re just starting out, you’ll want to learn at a beach break—better to bounce off sand when you fall than a jagged reef—with gently spilling waves, and no strong currents or rips.
Having spent the last two years surfing around the world, I can personally vouch for each of the following spots as perfect destinations for absolute beginners. Even if you’re not a complete beginner, each location also has other breaks within a short distance where you can progress onto green waves, and then challenge yourself on more advanced waves.
1. Muizenberg, South Africa
Located about half an hour outside of the centre of Cape Town, Muizenberg is one of the best places in the world for learning to surf. Surfer’s Corner at the top end of the beach is where most of the action happens.
The water can sometimes be crowded, especially on weekends, but the beach is big and there are plenty of waves breaking to spread everyone out. Once you’ve mastered the white water, head out the back for some super fun green waves.
The strip lining the sea front has plenty of surf shops offering board rental and lessons, as well as a good selection of cafes and restaurants.
Ticket to Ride run a 12 day surf camp in Cape Town which includes daily surf coaching, plus you’ll get to explore the best of the area, from Table Mountain to wine tasting in the Cape winelands. If you have more time, check out their 10 week South Africa Surf Adventure.
Water temperature: Cool – you’ll a need 3/2 wetsuit
Progress to: Long Beach in Kommetjie
Surf season in South Africa: Beginners should get waves all year round but the most consistent time for swell runs from April to August.
2. Byron Bay, Australia
Byron Bay is one of the world’s original surf towns. Laid back, hippy vibes, beautiful people and beach life perfectly sum up this small town on Australia’s east coast. Surfing is a way of life here and beginners will have everything they need, from professional surf schools to perfect waves.
Rent a board from one of the many surf shops in town and head to Main Beach for the best beginner waves. The Pass in Byron Bay is also perfect for learning, but being one of the most popular spots in town means that the crowds can make it a bit hair raising.
If you arrange a lesson with one of the local surf schools, they will drive you to a spot with the best conditions on the day in terms of waves, wind, and crowds.
Food and accommodation are more on par with Western prices so it’s not ideal if budget is your number one priority. Check out Byron Bay YHA, it’s one of the nicest hostels I’ve ever stayed in anywhere in the world.
Water temperature: Don’t be fooled by anyone who tells you the water is warm all year round. In winter you’ll need a 3/2 wetsuit, summer is bikini and boardies, and you may want to wear a spring suit in between.
Progress to: The Wreck, Tallows, Broken Head
Surf season on the east coast of Australia: Beginners should find waves all year round, but the wind direction is more liable to make the waves messy between September and November. The main swells hit between April and September.
3. Tofo, Mozambique
If the combination of warm, crystal clear water and uncrowded waves sounds appealing, book yourself a flight to Mozambique. Still under the radar compared to most surf destinations, Tofo has gentle peeling waves perfect for complete beginners, right through to rippable walls suited to more advanced surfers.
Usually, the best place for catching your first waves is right at the top end of the beach in front of Casa Barry. There is a surf shop on the beachfront at the other end of the beach where you can rent boards and arrange surf lessons with good instructors.
A bit more off the beaten track than the other destinations on this list, Tofo isn’t the best place for novice travellers looking to do a DIY surf trip. Africa can be quite intense and getting around can be a mission, but once you’re at the beach and settled, it’s amazing.
Water temperature: Warm – although you may want a spring suit as the wind can be cold
Progress to: The Point at Tofinho
Surf season in Mozambique: April to September, although the swell and wind can be a little bit fickle.
4. Kuta, Bali
Jam-packed full of stalls selling knock-off Gucci T-shirts and souvenirs, bars, restaurants, street hawkers, and traffic, you’d be forgiven for wanting to avoid Kuta. But what you’d be missing out on, is the best waves on the island for learning to surf.
Kuta beach is lined with board rental stands and instructors who will give you an hour lesson then hook you up with a Bintang on the beach afterwards. The quality of tuition can vary, so if you’re super serious, search out an accredited instructor.
The water can get crowded, but again, the beach is huge which spreads out the masses. Once you’re ready to move onto green waves, the same beach will give you plenty to work with unless the swell is big, in which case just grab a beer and enjoy the show.
Food and accommodation is relatively cheap in Bali so it makes a great choice for a budget warm water surf trip.
Water temperature: Warm – bikinis and boardies all year round
Progress to: Canggu, Medewi, Padang inside reef
Surf season in Bali: The main surf season runs from April to October. Beginners may get waves outside of this but the wind can be an issue.
5. Taghazout, Morocco
Home to mint tea, tagine, and pumping surf, the busy fishing village of Taghazout is also an epic place for learning to surf. The large main beach is the best place for absolute beginners to catch their first waves, with loads of options within a short radius to progress after that.
Flights from Europe to Agadir are surprisingly cheap, plus the cost of food and accommodation in Morocco is low, so it’s very possible to arrange a sunny surf trip without breaking the bank. Boards can be hired and lessons arranged at one of the surf shops in town, plus many hostels also have boards for hire.
If you’d rather have everything done for you, there are several well established surf camps in the area.
Water temperature: Cool – in winter you’ll need a 3/2 wetsuit, but bikini and boardies are possible in summer. In April, May and September you might be more comfortable in a spring suit.
Progress to: Panoramas or Hash Point
Surf season in Morocco: Beginners will get suitable waves all year round, but the main surf season is from around late September until April.
6. Weligama, Sri Lanka
Surfing in Sri Lanka is a great option if you’re looking for somewhere that’s tropical, but light on the budget. The bustling fishing village of Weligama has a long, wide sandy beach with plenty of waves perfect for beginners. The water can get crowded but most people are learning so it’s pretty easy going. Get there before 8am if you want to avoid the crowds.
The best place to surf is usually in front of the Marriott hotel and you can rent boards and get lessons from one of the many surf schools that line the beach.
There is a range of accommodation options in Weligama, from hostels to big hotels, plus loads of places to eat and drink. A budget favourite is Hangtime Hostel, right on the sea front.
Water temperature: Warm – bikinis and boardies all year round
Progress to: Plantations in neighbouring Midigama
Surf season in Sri Lanka: The main surf season on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka runs from the end of October to early April. Outside of this period you may get waves, but the wind will likely be messing them up.
7. Newquay, UK
If you don’t mind a bit of cold water, the UK is actually a great place to learn to surf. Cornwall picks up the most consistent swell and Newquay in particular has long been the home of British surfing. Fistral Beach is one of the most popular spots for beginners, but this does also mean that it can be crowded, especially during the summer months. Stunning Watergate Bay is just a short drive away and is another good option for learning.
Once you’ve mastered the white wash, head out the back at either beach for some super fun green waves on a small swell.
There is no shortage of surf schools to choose from in Newquay and Watergate Bay, plus surf shops where you can rent boards and wetsuits if you’d rather go it alone.
Water temperature: Cold – you’ll need a 3/2 wetsuit from about May to October and a 5/4 from November to April.
Progress to: Towan Beach, Great Western
Surf season in Cornwall: Beginners should get something all year round although summer does see flat spells. The best, and most consistent, time of year for surf in the UK is autumn and winter.
Where do you think the best places to learn to surf are?
Have you tried learning somewhere that’s not on this list and loved it? Let us know in the comments, and if you know anyone who might be interested in the best places to learn to surf (tropical surf trip anyone?), share the love using the social buttons below 🙂
Happy surfing!
Full disclosure: Some of the products in this post may contain affiliate links. Shopping via these links means that you can buy the product at no extra cost to you, but I receive a small commission which goes towards the running costs of this site. Be assured that I only recommend products I use myself and trust. Your support is very much appreciated.
Sri Lanka is slowly making a name for itself among travellers as a top budget destination and at the moment, is still relatively unspoiled by mass tourism. Although backpacking in Sri Lanka is already cheap by Western standards, there are ways to stretch your money even further, without reducing the quality of your experience, or sacrificing your your ethics.
Here’s how to do it:
1. Eat Local
Sri Lankan food is as delicious as it is spicy. Eating at a local restaurant or ‘roti shop’ will likely cost you a quarter of what it might in a place serving Western food. A traditional rice and curry buffet with a selection of different vegetable curries should cost around $2 (Rs 300), and a plate of vegetable kottu (chopped pieces of roti, fried with egg and vegetables) roughly the same.
Portions are usually mountainous; one plate of fried rice, noodles or kottu is often enough for two people. If you’re budgeting really hard, split the meal with a friend and halve the cost. Bulk it up with super spicy vegetable rotis (triangular parcels of flatbread stuffed with a spicy vegetable mixture) for only $0.30 (Rs 50) each.
2. Drink Smart
Sri Lanka does not have a big social drinking culture. Outside of Colombo, bars are noticeably lacking, many restaurants are not licensed to serve alcohol, and drinks are relatively expensive compared to other countries in Asia. One large beer at $2.60 (Rs 400) will set you back more than the cost of your dinner.
To avoid enforced sobriety without blowing your budget, pick up beer or spirits from a local ‘wine store’; there’s one in almost every town. Here, a large (625 ml) bottle of local beer will cost around $1.90 (Rs 290) and returning your empty bottles reduces the cost of future purchases to around $1.60 (Rs 250).
The cheapest spirit is the locally produced, and deceptively drinkable, Arrack. Try it with coke and a wedge of lime or neat over ice.
3. Wing it
If you are travelling outside of high season, arriving to a location without a room booked for the night can be a big money saver.
Use a website like Booking.com to find your preferred choice of accommodation, but don’t make the reservation through the site. Accommodations pay a commission to the website for your reservation, so by turning up without one, you should be able to negotiate a lower rate.
In some tourist hotspots you may even be met off the bus or train by local hotel owners with rooms to fill, and discounts on the advertised rates can be significant.
It is also worth asking around or keeping your eyes open for homestays, as they are often not listed on any booking websites and tend to be some of the cheapest accommodation available.
4. Take the Bus
Travelling by bus is by far the cheapest way to get around. A four hour journey can be as little as $1.30 (Rs 200) and the well connected route network will take you almost anywhere you could wish to go.
5. Pack Light
Rail travel is also cheap, but bear in mind that both buses and trains can get very crowded so are only suitable for travelling with a backpack or small suitcase. Pack light to avoid the need to use expensive taxis.
6. Know Your Price & Haggle
Tuk tuks (three wheelers) are everywhere and cost less than a taxi, though drivers will often try their luck when offering their initial price. Don’t be afraid to haggle and if the fare is unreasonable, walk up the street a little and try another. They may even come after you and offer a more realistic price.
Tourists undoubtedly pay a different price to locals, but even so, there will be a standard. Get an idea of the going rate from other tourists, or message your accommodation in advance to ask what the journey should cost.
7. Don’t get Scammed
Be alert for scams. One to watch out for is arriving at the bus station and being wrongly informed by some unscrupulous taxi or tuk tuk drivers that there are no buses to your destination. They then conveniently offer to take you there for ten times the amount you would have paid on the bus.
8. Avoid Expensive Airport Taxis
When arriving into Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport, you will be met by several (overpriced) taxi companies offering their services, plus more as you leave the airport. If your onward journey is short and you don’t have lots of luggage, leave the airport grounds and take a tuk tuk.
If you do need a taxi, try to book one in advance via your accommodation, or cut the cost by arranging to share one using the Sri Lanka Taxi Share website. Drivers also post on this site when they are offering special rates on specific routes so it’s worth checking it before you travel.
9. Stay Connected
The mobile data network in Sri Lanka is surprisingly good. Avoid expensive roaming charges on your home network by taking an unlocked phone and buying a local sim card when you arrive. Sim cards can be purchased at the airport or in one of the many telecom shops and data is cheap; $2.90 (Rs 449) will buy you 6GB of data (split as 2GB day, 4GB night), valid for 30 days. I used Dialog.
10. The Alternative to Sigiriya
One of Sri Lanka’s most visited landmarks, the ancient city of Sigiriya is also one of its most expensive. With an entrance fee at $30 (Rs 4,500) per person, you could be forgiven for wondering whether to skip it. The answer to this lies in what you are looking for.
If you enjoy ancient ruins, captivating frescos, and beautifully landscaped gardens, bear the pain and part with the cash.
If, however, you are only scaling Sigiriya for the stunning panoramic jungle views, there is an alternative, and it is far cheaper.
Lesser known Pidurangala Rock, lies approximately 2 kilometres away from Sigiriya. From its summit, you can take in the same spectacular jungle vistas, plus a view of Sigiriya itself in all its glory.
The cost to enter Pidurangala is a far more budget friendly $3.30 (Rs 500) per person. Taking a tuk tuk to the bottom should cost around $3.30 (Rs 500) or you can walk from Sigiriya.
Note that Pidurangala is a much more technical climb, so it’s only a suitable alternative if you have a decent level of fitness. Also, you will need to cover your shoulders and knees as the entrance is through the grounds of a temple.
Have any of your own tips for backpacking Sri Lanka on a budget?
These are my pearls of wisdom from travelling and surfing in Sri Lanka for almost three months. If you’ve also visited this amazing country and have any more tips for backpacking Sri Lanka on a budget, share the love and leave them in the comments. Also, if you found this post helpful or know anyone who will be backpacking Sri Lanka soon, please share it using the social buttons below 🙂
Sri Lanka is deservedly growing in popularity and gaining a spot on many of our bucket lists. A lush, tropical island paradise, it offers pristine beaches, spectacular wildlife, vibrant culture and is still relatively unspoiled by tourism.
Women travelling solo in Sri Lanka should feel safe; take the usual common sense precautions and you would be unlucky to run into serious danger. The biggest challenge facing solo female travellers in such a conservative and male dominated society, is the attitude of men towards women, particularly Western women.
This shouldn’t deter you from travelling solo. I spent almost three months on my own surfing in Sri Lanka and had an amazing time, but being aware of the potential pitfalls will help you avoid them. The following seven tips will arm you with the information you need for an amazing trip in this wonderful country.
1. Be Aware
The single most important thing you can do is simply be aware and conscious of the sad fact that many Sri Lankan men have a regressive attitude towards women. Travelling alone, you will be treated entirely differently to that of when you are in the company of a man. This can range from uncomfortable staring on the street right through to propositions and sexual advances, seemingly out of nowhere.
Be friendly and polite, but always remain cautious and be mindful of giving the wrong impression. Even being the slightest amount over friendly can be taken as an invitation.
Not every Sri Lankan man will behave inappropriately, but being aware of, and prepared for the fact that first impressions may not be what they seem, will help to avoid any potentially unpleasant situations.
2. Dress Appropriately
Sri Lanka is a conservative country and dress standards for women are modest. You may receive attention no matter what you wear but you can lessen it by covering your knees and shoulders and by not wearing anything tight or revealing. On public transport in particular, you will feel more comfortable the less skin you have on show.
Temples and other religious sites will not allow you entry with bare knees or shoulders, so keeping a scarf in your bag can be handy for when you need to cover up.
In the beach towns, whilst it is socially more acceptable to wear short-shorts and bikinis, you will still receive the same, if not more, attention even on the beach. What you wear, therefore comes down to your own personal tolerance level for the attention.
Public nudity is illegal in Sri Lanka so sunbathing topless is an absolute no wherever you are. I would also suggest that a thong style bikini is not advisable.
3. Don’t Be Afraid to Lie
One thing you can almost guarantee as a solo female traveller in Sri Lanka is that at some point, you will be asked if you are married and where your husband or boyfriend is. Oftentimes this is a just harmless question borne out of genuine curiosity as to how a woman could possibly be travelling alone. Even so, never give away that you are on your own. Don’t be afraid to lie and say that your husband/boyfriend is at your hotel, or that you are on your way to meet him.
Declaring that you don’t have one is at best going to encourage a barrage of other questions you likely won’t feel comfortable answering (Sri Lankans don’t seem to have same social boundaries as Westerners), and at worst act as a green light to an advance.
Some solo female travellers opt to wear a fake wedding ring, though there is debate around how much of a difference this really makes in deterring men from hitting on you.
4. Avoid Drinking and Smoking in Public
It is not socially acceptable for a woman to drink or smoke in public in Sri Lanka so choose where you do this carefully. Places with larger numbers of Western tourists such as the beach towns should be fine, otherwise it is probably best avoided.
If you are going out at night, ask if your accommodation can arrange a tuk tuk for you. Most will have at least one trusted driver they can call. Arranging in advance for the same driver to pick you up is also sensible.
5. Be Wary of Crowds
Buses and trains in Sri Lanka are by far the cheapest way of getting around but are usually packed. This can mean men sitting closer than you’re comfortable with or getting a little too close when squeezing past in the aisle. If you feel that someone is taking advantage of the situation, don’t be afraid to firmly tell them to stop.
On public transport, sit rather than stand where possible, and if you have the choice, sit next to a woman.
Beach parties are another hotspot for wandering hands and can become very crowded as the night goes on. At the risk of being groped, try to situate yourself so that you do not have to squeeze through the crowd to get to the bar or toilet, or leave before the masses arrive.
6. Trust Your Instincts
Don’t worry about being polite or causing offense by quickly getting out of a situation that you’re not comfortable with. I got myself into two sketchy situations early on in my trip that could have been avoided if I had just listened to my gut.
Make up an excuse as to why you have to leave, and go. It is better to trust your instincts, leave a situation and be wrong, than wait around and be proved right.
By the same token, do not allow yourself to be talked into something you are not happy with, for fear of causing offense by saying no.
Being out in the company of a man, a couple or even another woman can make a huge difference to the amount of attention you receive. If you have the opportunity to tag along with someone else or a group, take it. Most people will be more than happy to have you along and it can make life significantly easier.
If you do go out alone, the tips above should serve you well. Look confident, be assertive and enjoy.
The Good News
Don’t be discouraged; travelling in Sri Lanka is not a trial of constant hassle and harassment. The vast majority of people are wonderfully kind, friendly and helpful; I spent almost three months travelling solo here and my experience was overwhelmingly positive.
For the most part, any unwanted attention is just an annoyance and can be dealt with by ignoring it. Take all the usual common sense precautions you’d take when travelling anywhere, and with the addition of these tips, you should enjoy an amazing trip that’s memorable for all the right reasons.
Have You Travelled Solo in Sri Lanka?
How did you find it? Let me know your experiences in the comments below.
If you found these tips helpful or know anyone who is heading to Sri Lanka, it would be great if you could share this post using the social links below.
Happy travels!
Sri Lanka is well known for its warm waters, mellow waves and beautiful beaches. From the end of October to the beginning of April, the Southwest coast lights up and becomes a mecca for surfers from all over the world. It’s not hard to see why when it holds bragging rights to some of the best surf spots in Sri Lanka. During these months, swells become more consistent and the trade winds turn offshore making conditions ideal for surfing.
Many people surfing in Sri Lanka base themselves in the chilled village of Midigama as this location has no less than five good surf spots that consistently work, all within about 15 minutes walk of each other. This guide covers each of those spots, plus the best surf spots in either direction which can be easily accessed by tuk tuk or scooter.
As Sri Lanka is not particularly affected by tidal variation, these spots can be surfed on all tides.
Map of Southwest Sri Lanka Surf Spots
Each of the surf spots listed in this guide can be found in the interactive map below:
Midigama Surf Spots
Starting at the far Eastern end of Midigama and working West:
Coconuts
A powerful wave offering up fast rights and sometimes hollow lefts, Coconuts can hold up to 6ft on a long period swell. Be aware of the reef as you near the beach.
Paddle out from the same entry point as Plantations surf spot, through a break in the rocks along the shoreline, or paddle straight out over the reef in front of the break. This spot is usually less crowded than its neighbour, Plantations.
Suitable for advanced intermediates and up.
Plantations
A deep, sand bottom reef break, Plantations produces fun peeling rights and depending on the swell direction, a nice left (watch out for the rocks). If the swell direction is coming straight into the beach, a second peak works on the inside and is usually less crowded than the main peak. As with Coconuts, be aware of the reef as you near the beach.
The entry point and channel is from a break in the rocks that line the shore.
Suitable for advanced beginners and up.
Rams
After a steep, fast take-off, this popular A-frame provides short, fast lefts and barreling rights. Breaking over sharp, shallow reef, this spot holds up to 5-6ft on the right swell. Enter from the small beach in front of the break or go in straight from the rocks that line the shore.
Suitable for advanced surfers only.
Lazy Left
This spot is one of the most popular and therefore most crowded in Midigama. Lazy Left, as the name suggests, produces long peeling lefts which mellow out after a steep take off. The waves break over deep reef making it a good introduction to reef surfing. This spot can hold up to about 5ft.
Paddle out from the beach and aim for the channel between where the waves are breaking off Lazy Left and Lazy Right. This makes the paddle out much easier than it looks!
Suitable for intermediates and up.
Lazy Right
Often overlooked in favour of Lazy Left, neighbouring Lazy Right offers mellow rights and lefts, and on the right swell conditions can produce long rides all the way back to the beach.
Less experienced surfers will probably feel more comfortable surfing the peak on the inside. The waves break and reform so don’t be afraid to catch the wave just as it has broken and surf back onto the green face; the wave breaks gently on the inside and sometimes it’s the only way to take off!
Paddle out from the beach in front of the break. Take care to time it right as this beach is a massive shore dump!
Of all the breaks in the area, Lazy Right is the most susceptible to swell size and direction and doesn’t always work.
A short tuk tuk or scooter ride in either direction will take you to numerous other breaks.
Weligama
Widely regarded as the best place in Sri Lanka to learn to surf, absolute beginners will be comfortable in sandy Weligama Bay. There is a slight cross-shore current but it’s not strong. More experienced surfers will also find something to get their stoke on with this spot holding up to 5ft.
The peak in front of the Marriott Hotel tends to be the most consistent but a small wave for beginners may also be found in front of the island. This break can get very crowded in peak season and surfing at first light is a good option to avoid the crowds. Water quality is not as good as neighbouring spots, especially after heavy rain.
Suitable for absolute beginners and up.
Mirissa
A good sheltered spot, and one to consider if you are surfing out of season, Mirissa is a picturesque reef break fringed by palm trees. A fun right hander can be found at the Western end of the beach and a left by the harbour. This spot holds up to 5-6ft.
Expect to contend with crowds and watch out for urchins, this break is one of the worst for them!
Suitable for intermediates and up though be aware that it can get quite shallow on low tide.
Beyond Midigama to the West
Sticks
Just West of Ahangama, this is lesser known and therefore less crowded spot, produces a nice peeling A-frame that can hold up to 5ft. On smaller swells it is a really fun longboarding wave. A sandy reef break, be aware that this spot can get quite shallow on the inside.
As you leave Ahangama to the West you will see a restaurant and RDS Surf School on the lefthand side of the road. The stilt fishermen’s poles will confirm you have the right location.
Paddle out from the steps that lead down over the rocks.
Suitable for intermediates and up.
Kabalana
A few minutes further West, a perfect A-frame breaks over sandy reef just in front of ‘The Rock’. A powerful wave with a steep take off, this break is considered one of the best in Sri Lanka. Its quality is no secret though so expect to compete for waves with the masses during the main surfing season.
To the left of the ‘The Rock’, Kabalana also has a powerful beach break. Depending on the swell it can be challenging with waves breaking heavily in pretty shallow water. The beach is suitable for beginners but you will find stronger cross-shore currents than at Weligama.
What’s your favourite Southwest Sri Lanka surf spot?
Share your favourite Southwest Sri Lanka surf spots or any more tips in the comments below. If you have any questions, just leave a comment and I will do my best to answer them.
If you found this post helpful or if you know anyone who could use a guide to the Southwest Sri Lanka surf spots, it would be awesome if you’d share it using the social buttons below.
Happy surfing!
Whether you’re looking for the perfect location to base a surf trip in Sri Lanka, or just travelling around this beautiful country, it’s hard to beat the relaxed surf village of Midigama. Lying 140km south of Colombo on the Southwest coast, Midigama boasts five consistent surf breaks within easy walking distance of each other, uncrowded picture perfect beaches, and loads of accommodation options right at the beach.
When I started travelling, I planned to spend a month surfing Sri Lanka in total. I started my trip in Midigama and ended up spending two and half months just there!
The big draw of Midigama is that it doesn’t feel as touristy or chaotic as other towns on the Southwest coast. Its central location means that more surf spots can be found in both directions by tuk tuk or scooter, and it’s a great base for exploring the local area and sightseeing. Whale watching, Galle Fort, and Handunugoda tea plantation are all less than a 45 minute drive away. You can also see masses of elephants at Udawalawe National Park which is about 2 and a half hours away by car and is an awesome half day trip.
The best time to visit the Southwest coast of Sri Lanka is from the end of October to early April. During these months you can expect the majority of days to be dry and sunny and the conditions for surfing are ideal with consistent swell and offshore winds.
For a detailed guide on how to get from Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport to the Southwest coast, plus everything you need to know about surfing in Sri Lanka, take a look at Surfing Sri Lanka – The Ultimate Guide. The main points specific to Midigama however, are:
Taxi
The easiest option, especially if you are travelling with surfboards, is to pre-arrange a taxi. A pre-booked taxi to Midigama (including boards) should cost around Rs 8,000 (£42) one way, so use this as a guide when negotiating. The journey will take about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours depending on traffic.
If you would like to share a taxi to reduce costs, check or post on the Sri Lanka Taxi Share website.
Train
Firstly you will need to get from the airport to Colombo Fort train station. From there, you can take the scenic coastal line to Midigama or neighbouring Ahangama and Weligama.
Trains to Ahangama and Weligama are more frequent so you may find that it is more convenient to stop there, then take a short tuk tuk ride to Midigama. A tuk tuk from Ahangama or Weligama should cost around Rs 300 (£1.60).
The train journey to Midigama takes about 3 hours and costs Rs 220 (£1.15).
Be aware that Galle station is a dead end so the train pulls in then changes direction to get back out. Don’t panic, you’re still going the right way! Also, Midigama station has a really short platform so if you are in the rear carriages you will need to walk through a few carriages to get off onto the platform.
Bus
The cheapest way to get to Midigama is by bus. You can take a bus from the airport to Colombo and then take a bus from Pettah bus stand or Bastian Mawatha bus station.
Buses no.2 and 32 travel down the coast, tell the conductor or driver where you want to stop before you get on and they will let you know if you have the right bus.
If you have a lot of luggage or a surfboard, the bus is not a practical option as they are usually packed or become packed as they go and luggage space is very limited. A backpack is ok but you’d definitely struggle with hardshell luggage.
Thanks to its popularity with surfers, Midigama has loads of accommodation and options for a range of budgets. Booking.com and Airbnb cover the majority of places, but you will also find some gems that are not listed on any booking sites.
The village of Midigama is essentially spread out along the main road that runs down the coast so finding somewhere close to the beach is easy.
All of the options listed below are perfect for surfers.
Situated right in the middle of Midigama, Ebb & Flow Jungalows bring the luxury touch to surf travel in Sri Lanka. Two villas in a private boutique setting offer air conditioning, a swimming pool, and a terrace with sea views. Their celebrated in-house chef will serve you breakfast and any other meals you require during your stay.
Prices vary in the range of £255-£300 ($320-$375) a night for a two bedroom jungalow that can accommodate up to 6 people (additional charges apply above 4 people).
Located at the far Eastern end of Midigama, close to Coconuts and Plantations surf breaks, this place has 4 spacious rooms with 3 offering air conditioning. The two upstairs rooms have balconies with a sea view; perfect for checking the surf. The garden has a really nice chill out area and a lovely little cafe serving delicious Western treats.
Prices vary in the range of £40-£60 ($50-$75) a night for a double room with ensuite bathroom and air conditioning.
These cabanas are in a similar location to Plantation Surf Inn at the Eastern end of Midigama, but are set back further from the road in a peaceful, private garden. Each cabana has a small terrace and kitchenette with mini fridge. You can still enjoy great food and company by eating up in the main guesthouse.
Prices are around £40 ($50) a night for a double room bungalow with ensuite bathroom.
This super friendly and sociable guesthouse is located across the road from Plantations surf break, at the Eastern end of Midigama. Set back from the road in a tranquil garden which eliminates any noise from the road, this place is a nice mix of couples, families and friends and is ideal for solo travellers. The team here is fantastic. Chathu can advise you on, or arrange, everything you need from elephant safaris to getting married! The restaurant is particularly good.
Prices vary in the range of £19-£24 ($24-$30) a night for a double room with ensuite bathroom, or a single room with separate bathroom is available for £13-£16 ($16-$20) a night.
Located opposite Plantations surf break, this guesthouse has 4 rooms and is large, light, and airy. You can sit on the balcony with a beer or a coconut and watch stilt fisherman at work against the backdrop of crystal blue waves rolling in. There is no restaurant here but a basic kitchen with a fridge is available. This place is run by a wonderful family and is where I stayed for the majority of my time in Midigama.
Prices vary in the range of £11-£13 a night. You may be able to negotiate a cheaper rate if you arrive without a booking and they are not fully booked.
Slightly more inland and away from the noise of the road, this guesthouse is a favourite of longer term travellers. Each room has a small ensuite bathroom and there is a kitchen available to prepare food. Some of the rooms are a little dark but I think the budget price reflects this.
Prices vary in the range of £10-11 a night, although if they are not fully booked, you may be able to turn up and negotiate a cheaper rate.
Restaurants line the main road through Midigama offering a choice of local and Western food. The following are my favourites, and where I ate most often.
Plantation Surf Inn
Serving good food for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the menu at Plantation is a mix of local and Western food. Everything is cooked under the watchful eye of Chathu’s father who spent 24 years working as an executive chef at the five star Cinnamon Tree in Colombo and it shows. The food here is, in my opinion, the best you’ll get in Midigama.
Each day the evening meal special changes so be sure to call in around 4pm to see what it is and book if you plan to eat there. Check out the BBQ on Wednesday for whole grilled fish, chicken and prawns.
Prices reflect the quality so this is one of the more expensive places to eat in Midigama (though still cheap by Western standards). Rice and curry will cost around Rs 600 (£3.20) and the BBQ up to Rs 1,450 (£7.70).
Try: The rice and curry here is among the best I had in Sri Lanka and there’s plenty of it! Book it in advance.
Surf View
Located in the middle of the village, Surf View has a platform with tables overlooking the sea and more tables in a small garden area. This place is super popular and it’s not uncommon to have to wait for a table, but it is definitely worth the wait. The menu is a mix of local and Middle Eastern food and every dish is delicious. Sit with an iced coffee and enjoy the sea view or watch the expert surfers tearing it up at Rams. Don’t come here if you’re in a hurry; speedy service hasn’t made its way to Sri Lanka yet and this place is no exception.
Prices are in the budget to mid-range. Rice and curry will cost around Rs 250 (£1.30), Sabbich around Rs 500 (£2.65).
Try: Sabbich; an Israeli wrap stuffed with humous, roasted vegetables and boiled egg. Shukshuka; poached eggs in a delicately flavoured tomato and onion sauce. Sweet coconut rotti; a super sweet rotti filled with shredded coconut and honey.
Mama’s
Another popular place; waiting for a table is not uncommon but is testament to the food. Mama rules the roost and will get you sat down and eating as quickly as possible. Fried rice, noodles and kottu are the staples here and come in mountainous portions! The main attraction though is the rice and curry buffet. Rs 300 (£1.60) will buy you as much as you can eat of a selection of vegetable curries in varying degrees of spiciness plus rice and popadoms.
Prices are budget to mid-range. Rice and curry is Rs 300 (£1.60), noodles range between Rs 250- 450 (£1.30-£2.38).
Try: Chicken, cheese, egg and vegetable noodles. Make sure you’re hungry!
Shana Hotel Rotti Shop
If you are travelling Sri Lanka on a budget or just prefer to eat with the locals, try this little rotti shop. Located under the Shana Hotel at the far Eastern end of Midigama, just past Secret Midi, this place serves the cheapest rice and curry buffet in Midigama. Every day you can help yourself to a different selection of vegetable curries, plus rice, popadoms and string hoppers for Rs 250 (£1.30). Don’t expect table cloths and fine dining, this place is rustic, but serves good local food.
Prices are budget. Rice and curry is Rs 250 (£1.30), vegetable rotti Rs 50 (£0.25).
Try: Rice and curry! The vegetable rottis are also really good but can be quite spicy.
Chef Akila Kitchen
Although not technically in Midigama, this place deserves a special mention. Set on a cliff top with spectacular views across the ocean, Chef Akila Kitchen is one of the best places to eat in the local area. The menu is relatively small but each dish is done well. Its popularity is no secret so go early to avoid disappointment. A tuk tuk here from Midigama should cost no more than Rs 400 (£2.10).
Prices are mid-range and up. Rice and curry is Rs 600 (£3.20), prawns in hot garlic sauce Rs 1,000 (£5.30).
Try: Prawns in hot garlic sauce with rice. Insanely good. The rice and curry here is also superb.
Surprisingly, many places in Sri Lanka do not have a licence to serve alcohol so it is not as widely available as you might expect. If alcohol is not on the menu, it is always worth asking as some (but not all) places will serve beer in cans or bottles if you are eating there. Alcohol is relatively expensive compared to food prices.
Villa Naomi
Located right on the beach overlooking Coconuts surf break, the terrace of Villa Naomi is the perfect place to enjoy a cold bottle of Lion beer and watch the sun set. Prices are reasonable with a bottle of Lion (625ml) setting you back about Rs 400 (£2.10)
Cheeky Monkey (above Baba’s Surf Shop)
The closest thing in Midigama to a fully stocked bar is Cheeky Monkey. During the day the vibe is surf chillout, with big cushions on the floor and low tables. You can enjoy a much larger selection of alcholic drinks than anywhere else in Midigama, including spririts, cocktails and even English cider (for a price). In the evening the vibe is livelier and on Wednesday night the spotlight searching the sky signifies to anyone within a 10 mile radius that Wednesday night is party night at Cheeky Monkey. Things really get going at around 10pm and the music gets louder as the night wears on. The party finishes anywhere between 4 and 5am. Great if you’re at the party, not so good if you’re staying close by and trying to sleep.
Beers on the Beach
Watching the sky come ablaze with cold beers on the beach is a really cool way to end a day packed with surfing. The nearest off-licence is in Weligama, located on the right hand side of the main street as you turn left from the coast road. A big (625ml) bottle of Lion beer will set you back about Rs 290 (£1.50), although they operate a bottle exchange so returning the empty bottle will reduce the cost of your next one to Rs 250 (£1.30). They also have the normal selection of wines and spirits, plus Arrack, Sri Lanka’s local spirit. Try it with coke and a wedge of lime over ice.
Midigama is blessed with five good surf spots that work consistently, all within about 15 minutes walk of each other. None of the spots are suitable for absolute beginners, Weligama is a better choice for learning to surf and is about 10 minutes away by tuk tuk.
Starting at the far Eastern end of Midigama and working West:
Coconuts
A powerful wave offering up fast rights and sometimes hollow lefts. This spot is usually less crowded than its neighbour, Plantations. Suitable for advanced intermediates and up.
Plantations
A deep sand bottom reef break, Plantations produces fun peeling rights and depending on the swell direction, a nice left. Suitable for advanced beginners and up.
Rams
After a steep take-off, this popular A-frame provides short, fast lefts and barreling rights. Breaking over sharp, shallow reef, this spot is for advanced surfers only.
Lazy Left
Lazy Left, as the name suggests, produces long peeling lefts which mellow out after a steep take off. The waves break over deep reef making it a good introduction to reef surfing. Suitable for intermediates and up.
Lazy Right
Neighbouring Lazy Right offers mellow rights and lefts and on the right swell conditions can produce long rides all the way back to the beach. Suitable for advanced beginners and up.
Beyond Midigama
A short tuk tuk or scooter ride in either direction will take you to numerous other breaks.
To the East, Weligama is widely regarded as the best place in Sri Lanka for learning to surf but more experienced surfers will also find something to get their stoke on. Mirissa is a good sheltered spot but can be crowded, also beware the urchins!
To the West, ‘Sticks’ just beyond Ahangama is a really fun longboarding wave with a friendly atmosphere. Beyond that is Kabalana where a perfect A frame breaks just in front of the rock, though this spot is often overcrowded. Depending on the swell, the rest of the beach can be challenging with waves breaking heavily in pretty shallow water.
There are several options for renting a surfboard in Midigama. Starting at the clock tower at the Western end of Midigama and working East down the main coast road you have Midigama Surf shop, Chamara Surfboard Rental, Indika Surf Shop, and Baba’s Surf Shop. Each has a selection of short boards through to longboards and all are within about 10 minutes walk of each other so don’t be afraid to look around before committing.
Expect prices in the region of Rs 300-400 (£1.55-£2.10) an hour or Rs 1,000-1,200 (£5.30-£6.35) a day. Definitely negotiate a lower price if you’re renting for a longer period.
If you are unlucky enough to need a board repair service on your surf trip, I would recommend Indika, a small place located in the middle of Midigama. A minor ding repair should only set you back about Rs 1,500 (£8) and the quality of work is spot on.
Scooters can be rented by the day from Baba’s Surf Shop in the middle of the village on the main road. The cost is approximately Rs 1000 per day (£5.30). Certain guesthouses also have scooters available for rent at a cheaper rate (eg Plantation Surf Inn, Danushka). If your accommodation doesn’t rent them they will almost certainly be able to advise on where to get one.
If you’d like to energise yourself for the day ahead or stretch out surf weary muscles in the evening, yoga classes are available at Baba’s Surf Shop at 8.30am in the garden, or 5.30pm on the rooftop. The cost is Rs 800 (£4.25) per class. There are also many other classes held in neighbouring Weligama and Ahangama, keep an eye out for fliers.
Apart from Wednesdays, the nightlife in Midigama is pretty subdued and leans more towards eating than partying. See Where to Drink for more.
Outside of Midigama, the ‘go-to’ place to party is Mirissa where a string of bars and restaurants line the beach. Try Water Creatures on a Friday night; fireworks get the party started and you can sip cocktails on the beach or dance into the early hours of the morning. A tuk tuk to Mirissa should cost around Rs 600 (£3.20) from Midigama.
The nearest supermarket is located in neighbouring Weligama, about a ten minute tuk tuk or bus ride away. I liked Food City which you can find by turning left off the coast road into Weligama, then at the crossroads turn right. It is about a five minute walk from there.
The bus to Weligama should cost about Rs 20 (£0.10) each way, try to have the right money. A tuk tuk should cost no more than Rs 300 (£1.60) each way.
There is no ATM in Midigama so you will need to head to Weligama for cash. I used HNB as it didn’t charge me any extra fees, though this will obviously depend on your card. You can find this one by turning left off the coast road into Weligama, it is about half way down the street on the left. Other ATMs can be found by continuing down the same road, turning left at the crossroads and walking for about 5 minutes. Alternatively, ask a tuk tuk to take you to one.
Streetlights
There are no streetlights in Midigama so if you are walking anywhere at night, you may like to bring a torch (or use your mobile phone).
Reef shoes
It’s no secret that surfers don’t like wearing reef shoes, but depending on your tolerance for risk/fashion consciousness, you may want to bring a pair. In theory you don’t need reef shoes to surf any of the spots in Midigama; most people don’t and I never did. That said, I did manage to slice my toe on the rock at Plantations, and I know of a guy who ripped a toe nail off!
Security
It sounds obvious but don’t leave valuables on the beach while you surf.
Have you surfed or travelled in Midigama and have any tips of your own? Share the love and pop them in the comments below. If there is anything else t you’d like to know, just add a comment and I’ll do my best to add it in.
If you found this post helpful or know anyone who is planning a surf trip or holiday to Sri Lanka, please share it using the social links below.
Happy travels!
If you haven’t already done it, surfing Sri Lanka should definitely be on your bucket list. I planned to go for a month, and ended up staying for almost three!
Sri Lanka is a dream destination for surfers. Warm, turquoise waters, palm fringed beaches and consistent year-round swell makes it the perfect choice for a tropical surf trip. The sunsets are up there with the best in the world, the food is incredible, and if you’re lucky, turtles can pop up right next to you while you wait for waves.
Compared to other popular surf destinations, it’s still relatively unspoiled by tourism. You’ll also find the super cheap prices common in much of Asia so it’s pretty easy on the pocket once you’re there.
There are breaks for all abilities; a mix of beaches, deep reefs, shallow barreling reefs, rights and lefts; something for everyone! When you’re not getting salty (if you can drag yourself away), Sri Lanka serves up epic landscapes, amazing wildlife and plenty of culture to keep you entertained for as long as you can bear to be away from the water.
Read on for everything you need to know about surfing and travelling in this tropical island paradise, plus my best tips to help you have an amazing time.
The surf season in Sri Lanka pretty much runs all year round; the only consideration is whether you go to the East coast or West coast to get the best of it, and that depends on the time of year.
From the end of October to early April the Southwest coast sees consistent swell, morning offshore winds, and beautiful weather with the majority of days sunny and dry.
May to October and the East coast lights up, offering up more consistent swell, slightly bigger waves and offshore winds. During this period it is still possible to find surf on the Southwest coast, but the monsoon season brings less than ideal conditions and onshore winds mess up the majority of spots.
This depends on what you’re looking for (and of course which coast you’re heading to).
Southwest Coast
Hikkaduwa is many people’s first stop on the Southwest coast. If you want nightlife and don’t mind a touristy location that can be crowded, this is a good choice.
If you’re looking for somewhere more chilled and much less crowded, Midigama further down the coast makes an excellent base and would be my top recommendation. Midigama offers quiet beaches, has five surf breaks all within walking distance of each other, and is only a short tuk tuk ride away from many other breaks in both directions, including beach breaks suitable for beginners. For nightlife, Mirissa is only a Rs 600 (£3.20) tuk tuk ride away.
Neighbouring Weligama is another popular option, particularly for beginners due to the big sandy beach and huge selection of surf schools.
East Coast
The so-called surf mecca of Sri Lanka, Arugam Bay is the obvious choice for surfing on the East coast. You’ll find a mellow party scene and chilled vibe, but the downside of its popularity is that it can be crowded in the surf season, especially the main surf spots. You can however take a short tuk tuk ride to many other breaks in the area, so escaping the crowds is possible.
Tides don’t really affect surfing in Sri Lanka as there is hardly any variation between high tide and low tide, so most breaks can be surfed on all tides.
Mornings and evenings are the best times to surf in Sri Lanka. In season, the mornings are usually glassy or the wind is offshore, it can pick up in the afternoon and turns onshore, then drops again just before sunset.
Bear in mind the strength of the sun and, unless red is your colour, try to avoid surfing in the main heat of the day (around 11am – 3pm).
This is a case of weighing up the pros and cons and ultimately comes down to personal preference. For Sri Lanka, the main points to consider are:
Airline board fees & policies
Does your airline charge a fee for taking your board or have a size restriction? You can check in the 2019 Surfer’s Airline Baggage Fees Guide from Carve Magazine.
Availability/cost of a rental board
Unless you’re going completely off the beaten track, most Sri Lankan surf towns and villages have at least one surf shop or surf school with a selection of surfboards for rent. Typical costs are Rs 300-400 (£1.55-£2.10) an hour or Rs 1,000-1,200 (£5.30-£6.35) a day.
How much you want to travel around
Having a board in tow will make that little trip to the hill country a mega pain the backside if you plan to travel by public transport. The same thing goes for if you plan on moving from town to town. Surfboards are ok on trains in Sri Lanka (albeit a bit of a struggle if it’s busy) but buses most likely won’t allow you on with one so you will be limited only to locations accessible by tuk tuk or train.
Buying a board
Depending on how long you’re staying in Sri Lanka, buying a board may be an option. Most surf shops will be able to hook you up with a new or second hand board. Depending on your location and what’s available second hand at the time, you’ll probably be looking at a minimum of Rs 25,000 (£130). Definitely be prepared to negotiate and if possible, take a local with you.
The sea temperature in Sri Lanka doesn’t vary much from a balmy 28ºC year round, so bring tropical surf wax. I used Sex Wax Tropic (the blue box) which was great.
Getting it on the board can be a bit of a mission as the air temperature is so hot it can make it smeary and flakey. Keep your board in the shade and try to do it first thing in the morning. If you have one, keep your wax in the fridge.
Make sure you remove your cold water wax before you leave home or you may find it sliding off your board when you arrive.
Many of the towns and villages in Sri Lanka don’t have streetlights. A torch is handy if you are walking anywhere at night both to see and be seen. You may be able to use your mobile phone if it has a good enough light built into it.
Roof straps
Most of the tuk tuks will have a means of strapping your board to the roof, but this may mean enduring the heart in mouth anxiety of your beloved board being tied on with a piece of garden string – or two random pieces of fabric tied together – or other equally sketchy creations.
I would say only take them if you have them and have space for them. I didn’t have any and my board survived, it just added to the adventure!
Unless you have a cast iron constitution, you’ll be extremely lucky to avoid a bout of Delhi Belly at some point in your trip and you may have to deal with worse. I use Dioralyte to rehydrate, and try to avoid Imodium if possible as it keeps the bug in, making the illness last longer.
As Sri Lanka is near the equator, the strength of the sun is on another level and spending your first few days burnt to a crisp is the norm. Try to avoid surfing in the main heat of the day (11am – 3pm) and always use a good, high factor waterproof sunscreen on your body and zinc on your face. I’ve found P20 and Hawaiian Tropic (factors 30-50) to be the best I’ve tried. On my face I use Sun & Earth Zinc.
Cost and poor availability of good quality sunscreen make it worthwhile bringing your own rather than trying to buy it in Sri Lanka.
I’d also highly recommend taking a long sleeve rash vest. Even if you don’t wear it all the time it’s a godsend for the times you do want to surf in the middle of the day and also for when you inevitably do burn and don’t want to stay out of the water. Try to get one with SPF 50+.
The only time I wanted to go home, in the entire time I was in Sri Lanka, was after being eaten alive by these tiny monsters from hell and enduring a couple of days of itchy torture.
The peak times for being bitten are around sunrise and sunset. Bear this in mind when coming out of the water after sunset sessions.
Covering up is the best method of prevention, otherwise use a good, 50% deet based mosquito repellent. I use Jungle Formula Maximum. To help relieve the itch I use Afterbite or Tiger Balm.
Nearly all accommodations have a mosquito net over the bed so there’s no need to bring one.
Before travelling to Sri Lanka you must obtain an ETA (Electronic Travel Authorisation) which can be done online. This is valid for 30 days but can be extended for up to 6 months once you’re in Sri Lanka (See Extending Your Visa below). It is worth printing a copy of your confirmation to take with you as you may be asked for it. The current fee is $35.
In addition to this, your passport should be valid for at least 6 months from the date of arrival. You may be required to prove that you have sufficient funds to cover the expenses of your trip (a credit card will be fine for this) and you may also be asked to produce a return ticket. I wasn’t asked for either of these but had them just in case.
Always double check the current requirements for your country before you go.
From most countries in the world, you will not be able to fly direct. I flew with Etihad via Abu Dhabi on their A380 which was amazing, and my board went free as part of my checked luggage allowance.
At the moment the only airline flying direct from the UK is Sri Lankan, however this may change in the future as the runway at Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport is currently under construction to accommodate the new A380 and larger aircraft. Everyone I spoke to who had flown Sri Lankan was happy with their flights and surfboards go as part of your free baggage allowance. As a guide, the direct flight from London takes 10h 25m.
Use Skyscanner to play around with flight schedules and to find the cheapest flights.
The currency of Sri Lanka is Sri Lankan Rupees (LKR). It is a closed currency so you can’t buy it until you get to Sri Lanka. When you arrive at Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport you can change money at the bureau de change/bank or withdraw it from the ATMs, both located in arrivals.
As you come through into arrivals after baggage claim you will see the bureau de change/banks in front of you, slightly to the left. For the ATMs keep heading towards the far left wall, they are tucked away on the side of one of the booths. You may need to try different machines as, from memory there were 3 or 4 machines, one didn’t accept foreign cards, and one had a withdrawal limit of Rs 20,000 (£106) so keep going until you find a suitable machine.
Practicalities
The vast majority of shops and restaurants do not accept cards so take this into consideration when deciding how much cash to get. There are ATMs in the main towns in Sri Lanka so getting more cash shouldn’t be an issue, unless you’re going way off the beaten track.
Many places don’t seem to like accepting big notes (Rs 5000) so break them down whenever you get the opportunity. Also, it pays to have the right money for tuk tuks as it’s not unusual for them to ‘not have change’, especially if you’ve haggled the price down.
How to Get From Colombo Airport to Your Destination
Taxi
The easiest option for West coast and especially East coast trips is to pre-arrange a taxi (your accommodation should be able to assist with this). Price wise, a pre-booked taxi to Midigama/Weligama (including boards) should cost around Rs 8,000 (£42) one way, and to Arugum Bay about Rs 20,000 (£106), so use this as a guide if negotiating.
If you haven’t pre-booked, there are taxi counters in arrivals and various other drivers who will try to get your business as you leave the airport. They are relatively expensive though so try to pre-book if possible and definitely try to negotiate.
By far the cheapest option is to take the bus or the train. One important point to note though is that Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport is not actually in the city of Colombo. It’s about 22miles (45 minutes) north in the suburb of Negombo, so if you are planning to take a bus or train you will first need to get to Colombo Fort (see below).
A non pre-booked taxi to Colombo will be anywhere between Rs 2,000-4,000 (£11-£21).
Train
To get from the airport to Colombo Fort by train, take a taxi or tuk tuk to Katunayake train station (about 1km from the airport). From here it is just over an hour’s journey to Colombo. To get a tuk tuk turn left when you exit arrivals and head out of the airport grounds.
As this station is near the start of the line, the train shouldn’t be too crowded when you get on so boards are manageable. If you can, put it up on the bars across the carriage (like in the photo below) as the train will fill up as you go. Colombo Fort is the last stop so getting off with your board is easy, just let the train empty out first. The cost is approx Rs 60-120 (£0.30-£0.60).
Bus
You can take an air conditioned bus from outside the airport to Colombo Fort for approximately Rs 120 (£0.60). Turn left out of the airport and walk about 100m to a fenced parking area. Buses leave every 30 minutes.
If you are travelling with your board, getting the bus is hit and miss. It will depend on the size of the board and you may have to wait for another bus to let you on. Don’t even attempt it on the non A/C buses.
How to Get From Colombo Fort to the Southwest Coast
Train
Once at Colombo Fort, you can take the scenic coastal line (Colombo Fort – Matara) to the main surfing towns on the Southwest coast and then get a tuk tuk to your exact destination. Boards can go up on the luggage racks of the train if there is room, and if not, you can stand with your board at the end of the carriage by the door.
If there are no seats on the train, sitting by the open door is an amazing experience, just don’t hang your legs all the way out; you’d be surprised how many train related foot/leg injury stories you hear!
A couple of things to be aware of…Galle station is a dead end so the train pulls in then pulls out in the opposite direction. Don’t panic, you’re still going the right way. Midigama station has a really short platform so if you are in the rear carriages you will need to walk through a few carriages to get off onto the platform.
Bus
The buses in Sri Lanka are not for the faint hearted but they are definitely part of the full Sri Lanka experience, and are the cheapest mode of transport. To get the bus from Colombo go to Pettah bus stand, a short walk from Colombo Fort railway station (or to get on at the main station go to Bastian Mawatha bus station, a short distance away).
You can check timetables and routes on the National Transport Commission website, although most buses seem to make it up as they go along. They are fairly regular though so just wait for one to turn up.
Buses no.2 and 32 travel down the coast, tell the conductor or driver where you want to stop before you get on and they will let you know if you have the right bus.
Most buses in Sri Lanka are usually packed and will not allow you on with a surfboard.
There is no easy way of getting to the main surfing town of Arugam Bay on the East coast; even by taxi it can be a 6-10 hour journey depending on the time of day.
Bus
To take a direct bus from Colombo to Arugam Bay you will need to travel overnight. This journey takes approximately 7 hours and starts from Colombo Central bus stand. To travel by day you can take a bus to Monaragala, and then take a bus to Pottuvil or Panama, though this option is considerably longer due to traffic.
Train
Taking the train all the way to Arugam Bay is not possible; the journey will involve at least one segment by road and is quite lengthly.
One option is to take the morning train from Colombo to Batticaloa (approx 9 hours), then take the connecting express bus from Batticaloa railway station to Pottuvil (approx 3-4 hours). From Pottuvil you can take a short tuk tuk ride to get to Arugam Bay.
Another option is to take the 9 hour train ride from Colombo Fort to Ella; a beautiful journey through the hill country, and stay overnight in Ella. The following day head to the bus stop in Ella and get a bus to Monaragala, then from Monaragala take the bus to Panama, which stops in Arugam Bay. This part of the journey can take over 5 hours. This option is particularly scenic, but not suitable if you are trying to get to Arugam Bay in one day.
Taking the bus is by far the cheapest way of getting around in Sri Lanka and is definitely something to be experienced, even if only once. The bus network is excellent and takes you pretty much anywhere you could want to go.
To catch the bus from the road, go to one of the marked bays, you can spot them as there should be a blue bus on a signpost and a yellow half box painted on the side of the road. When you see the bus you want (good luck as it’ll likely be travelling at what seems like 100mph) put your arm out and hope for the best.
Not all buses will stop and you may have to wait for several buses, though depending on where you are, they are frequent.
When the bus stops, enter at the rear (quickly) and if possible take a seat. There will be a conductor on the bus to take your money. Try to have as close to the right money as possible as they don’t always have change, especially not for big notes. When you want to get off, there are buttons along the roof of the bus, press one when you’re near your stop and when the bus stops, don’t hang around!
Be aware that taking a board on the bus is a no-go as buses are usually either packed when you get on, or become packed as you travel.
If you have a backpack, try to catch the eye of the conductor as he will know the best place to put it. At the front of the bus there is often a space by the driver. Failing that, if you get on at the rear, there may be a small space between the rear door and the first seat on the left, otherwise you’ll be sitting with it on your lap. For journeys starting and ending in bus stations, the conductor may let you put your pack in a small luggage compartment inside the back of the bus (if the bus has one).
Train
The next cheapest option is the train which, again, is an experience in itself. First class will secure you a seat for your journey and is a comfortable way to travel. Second class is also comfortable though you may not get a seat. If this happens, standing or sitting by the open door is the next best option. Just don’t hang your legs all the way out as injuries are surprisingly common!
If you’re feeling adventurous, try third class, but you will almost definitely be standing in a crowded carriage for most, if not all of your journey.
Boards are ok on the train. If possible, try to get it up on the luggage rack at the earliest opportunity. Backpacks can also go up on the luggage rack, behind the last seat in the carriage, or there is often a small luggage compartment by the door.
The SL Railway app is really useful for planning journeys and finding timetable information.
Stations are not always clearly marked so either ask a local to let you know when you’re near your station (they are all super friendly and happy to help), or keep an eye on your location with an app like maps.me.
Tuk tuk
Tuk tuks (three wheelers) are in abundant supply and are perfect for taking up to 3 people anywhere you want to go directly. Taking boards is no problem; nearly all of them will have some mechanism to strap your board(s) to the roof.
It is useful to have an idea of the going rate to get to your destination as a lot of drivers will ask over and above and then haggle with you down to a more reasonable price. There are always plenty of tuk tuks around so don’t be afraid to walk away if you feel the price is unfair.
Scooter
If you’re feeling brave, you can rent a scooter for around Rs 800-1,000 (£4.20-£5.30) per day. Your accommodation may have them available or should be able to help you source one.
The roads in Sri Lanka are another level of crazy and you may want to wait a little while until you are more familiar with the ‘style’ of driving. It’s not unusual to see a bus overtaking a tuk tuk overtaking a scooter with traffic coming in the other direction and a dog wandering around in the road. It’s pretty nerve wracking!
You supposedly need your International Driving Permit but many people don’t have one and don’t have any problems.
The police have mixed policies on surf racks on scooters and can issue fines of up to Rs 50,000 (£265) to anyone caught riding with one. If you plan on renting a scooter, double check locally what the current situation is.
Ring your doctor as soon as you know you are travelling to Sri Lanka and ask for advice on vaccinations. I called two months before I travelled to book an appointment and was told that I’d almost left it too late!
The most commonly recommended vaccinations for Sri Lanka are:
Hepatitis A
Typhoid
Tetanus
Rabies
Hepatitis B
In the UK, the top 3 are provided free whereas you will need a private prescription and have to pay for Rabies and Hepatitis B. As a guide, I paid £125 for Rabies and £76 for Hep B but it can vary. They are then administered over the course of a month.
This is an absolute must have, especially for a surf trip. Make sure that surfing specifically is covered under the policy. I have mine with World Nomads as the policy was well priced and covers everything I could possibly need it to (including surfing).
Edit: I actually had to claim on my policy for an early flight home and World Nomads paid out quickly and with no problems at all so I can personally recommend them.
Most places in Sri Lanka offer free wifi but, depending on where you are, connection speeds can be excruciatingly low. Many places have high speed connections based on day and night tariffs.
Once the quota of data has been used up, it switches to a slower connection. So you may find that between 8am and midnight even trying to browse Facebook is mind meltingly frustrating, but overnight it works perfectly. Data allowances refresh at the start of the month so you’ll have high speed all day again until it runs out.
Getting a local sim card is easy and data is super cheap to buy; 6GB of data (split as 2GB day, 4GB night) will only set you back Rs 449 (£2.40) and coverage is surprisingly good (I was able to FaceTime my mum from the top of Adam’s Peak!). I would recommend Dialog 4G. To get a sim card just look out for a Dialog Service Centre in any town.
Sri Lanka uses a mix of the old style 3 pin round plugs and the UK 3 pin socket. You can buy adapters online or in Sri Lanka. Your guesthouse or hotel may also be able to lend you one.
Pro tip: If you are using an adapter with two pins (like the Euro adapter), and the socket has three holes, you will find that you can’t push it in. Push something into the top hole first to ‘open’ the bottom two holes (I used the jack end of my headphones).
This is due to a safety feature that prevents anything being accidentally inserted into the socket. The top pin is the earth pin so shouldn’t be live but take care and make sure the socket is switched off first.
As well as the adapter, I also brought a power surge protector with me as I’d heard that the power supply can be a bit unpredictable and didn’t want to risk toasting my laptop.
If you are staying in Sri Lanka longer than 30 days, you will need to extend your visa. You can get a further two months when you extend the first time, and then 3 months the second time.
To get an extension, you will need to go to the Department of Immigration & Emigration in Colombo, but be warned, the process can make you give up the will to live! The current cost of a two month extension for UK citizens is $54, but it varies by nationality.
It’s surprisingly easy to ruin your board in the fierce tropical Sri Lankan sun. Don’t leave your board in the direct sunlight…at best you’ll melt your wax, and at worst you may be unlucky enough to delaminate your board (I’ve seen it happen)!
What are your best tips for surfing Sri Lanka?
If you’ve already surfed in Sri Lanka and have any tips of your own, I’d love to hear them…Or if you’d like to know anything else just pop a comment below and I’ll do my best to add it in.
If you found this post helpful or know anyone who is planning on surfing Sri Lanka soon, it would be awesome if you’d share it via the social links below 🙂
Happy travels!
Full disclosure: Some of the products in this post contain affiliate links. Shopping via these links means that you can buy the product at no extra cost to you, but I receive a small commission which goes towards the running costs of this site. Be assured that I only recommend products I use myself and trust. Your support is very much appreciated.