Surfing Sri Lanka – The Ultimate Guide
If you haven’t already done it, surfing Sri Lanka should definitely be on your bucket list. I planned to go for a month, and ended up staying for almost three!
Sri Lanka is a dream destination for surfers. Warm, turquoise waters, palm fringed beaches and consistent year-round swell makes it the perfect choice for a tropical surf trip. The sunsets are up there with the best in the world, the food is incredible, and if you’re lucky, turtles can pop up right next to you while you wait for waves.
Compared to other popular surf destinations, it’s still relatively unspoiled by tourism. You’ll also find the super cheap prices common in much of Asia so it’s pretty easy on the pocket once you’re there.
There are breaks for all abilities; a mix of beaches, deep reefs, shallow barreling reefs, rights and lefts; something for everyone! When you’re not getting salty (if you can drag yourself away), Sri Lanka serves up epic landscapes, amazing wildlife and plenty of culture to keep you entertained for as long as you can bear to be away from the water.
Index
Surf…
Sri Lanka Surf Season
Where to Stay
When to Surf
Take a Board or Rent
Which Wax to Use
What to Pack for Surfing in Sri Lanka
Sun Protection
Mosquitoes
Travel…
Visa Requirements
How to Get There
Money
How to Get From Colombo Airport to Your Destination
How to Get From Colombo Airport to Colombo Fort
How to Get From Colombo Fort to the Southwest Coast
How to Get From Colombo Fort to the East Coast
Getting Around in Sri Lanka
Vaccinations
Travel Insurance
Staying Connected
Take the Right Adapter Plug
Extending Your Visa
One Last Piece of Advice…
Sri Lanka Surf Season
The surf season in Sri Lanka pretty much runs all year round; the only consideration is whether you go to the East coast or West coast to get the best of it, and that depends on the time of year.
From the end of October to early April the Southwest coast sees consistent swell, morning offshore winds, and beautiful weather with the majority of days sunny and dry.
May to October and the East coast lights up, offering up more consistent swell, slightly bigger waves and offshore winds. During this period it is still possible to find surf on the Southwest coast, but the monsoon season brings less than ideal conditions and onshore winds mess up the majority of spots.
Where to Stay
This depends on what you’re looking for (and of course which coast you’re heading to).
Southwest Coast
Hikkaduwa is many people’s first stop on the Southwest coast. If you want nightlife and don’t mind a touristy location that can be crowded, this is a good choice.
If you’re looking for somewhere more chilled and much less crowded, Midigama further down the coast makes an excellent base and would be my top recommendation. Midigama offers quiet beaches, has five surf breaks all within walking distance of each other, and is only a short tuk tuk ride away from many other breaks in both directions, including beach breaks suitable for beginners. For nightlife, Mirissa is only a Rs 600 (£3.20) tuk tuk ride away.
Neighbouring Weligama is another popular option, particularly for beginners due to the big sandy beach and huge selection of surf schools.
East Coast
The so-called surf mecca of Sri Lanka, Arugam Bay is the obvious choice for surfing on the East coast. You’ll find a mellow party scene and chilled vibe, but the downside of its popularity is that it can be crowded in the surf season, especially the main surf spots. You can however take a short tuk tuk ride to many other breaks in the area, so escaping the crowds is possible.
When to Surf
Tides don’t really affect surfing in Sri Lanka as there is hardly any variation between high tide and low tide, so most breaks can be surfed on all tides.
Mornings and evenings are the best times to surf in Sri Lanka. In season, the mornings are usually glassy or the wind is offshore, it can pick up in the afternoon and turns onshore, then drops again just before sunset.
Bear in mind the strength of the sun and, unless red is your colour, try to avoid surfing in the main heat of the day (around 11am – 3pm).
Take a Board or Rent
This is a case of weighing up the pros and cons and ultimately comes down to personal preference. For Sri Lanka, the main points to consider are:
Airline board fees & policies
Does your airline charge a fee for taking your board or have a size restriction? You can check in the 2019 Surfer’s Airline Baggage Fees Guide from Carve Magazine.
Availability/cost of a rental board
Unless you’re going completely off the beaten track, most Sri Lankan surf towns and villages have at least one surf shop or surf school with a selection of surfboards for rent. Typical costs are Rs 300-400 (£1.55-£2.10) an hour or Rs 1,000-1,200 (£5.30-£6.35) a day.
How much you want to travel around
Having a board in tow will make that little trip to the hill country a mega pain the backside if you plan to travel by public transport. The same thing goes for if you plan on moving from town to town. Surfboards are ok on trains in Sri Lanka (albeit a bit of a struggle if it’s busy) but buses most likely won’t allow you on with one so you will be limited only to locations accessible by tuk tuk or train.
Buying a board
Depending on how long you’re staying in Sri Lanka, buying a board may be an option. Most surf shops will be able to hook you up with a new or second hand board. Depending on your location and what’s available second hand at the time, you’ll probably be looking at a minimum of Rs 25,000 (£130). Definitely be prepared to negotiate and if possible, take a local with you.
Which Wax to Use
The sea temperature in Sri Lanka doesn’t vary much from a balmy 28ºC year round, so bring tropical surf wax. I used Sex Wax Tropic (the blue box) which was great.
Getting it on the board can be a bit of a mission as the air temperature is so hot it can make it smeary and flakey. Keep your board in the shade and try to do it first thing in the morning. If you have one, keep your wax in the fridge.
Make sure you remove your cold water wax before you leave home or you may find it sliding off your board when you arrive.
What to Pack for Surfing in Sri Lanka
For a general guide on what to pack, take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Packing for a Surf Trip, but for surfing in Sri Lanka specifically, I would recommend:
Torch
Many of the towns and villages in Sri Lanka don’t have streetlights. A torch is handy if you are walking anywhere at night both to see and be seen. You may be able to use your mobile phone if it has a good enough light built into it.
Roof straps
Most of the tuk tuks will have a means of strapping your board to the roof, but this may mean enduring the heart in mouth anxiety of your beloved board being tied on with a piece of garden string – or two random pieces of fabric tied together – or other equally sketchy creations.
I would say only take them if you have them and have space for them. I didn’t have any and my board survived, it just added to the adventure!
Good sun protection
Mosquito repellent & bite relief
Diarrhoea relief/rehydration
Unless you have a cast iron constitution, you’ll be extremely lucky to avoid a bout of Delhi Belly at some point in your trip and you may have to deal with worse. I use Dioralyte to rehydrate, and try to avoid Imodium if possible as it keeps the bug in, making the illness last longer.
Sun Protection
As Sri Lanka is near the equator, the strength of the sun is on another level and spending your first few days burnt to a crisp is the norm. Try to avoid surfing in the main heat of the day (11am – 3pm) and always use a good, high factor waterproof sunscreen on your body and zinc on your face. I’ve found P20 and Hawaiian Tropic (factors 30-50) to be the best I’ve tried. On my face I use Sun & Earth Zinc.
Cost and poor availability of good quality sunscreen make it worthwhile bringing your own rather than trying to buy it in Sri Lanka.
I’d also highly recommend taking a long sleeve rash vest. Even if you don’t wear it all the time it’s a godsend for the times you do want to surf in the middle of the day and also for when you inevitably do burn and don’t want to stay out of the water. Try to get one with SPF 50+.
Mosquitoes
The only time I wanted to go home, in the entire time I was in Sri Lanka, was after being eaten alive by these tiny monsters from hell and enduring a couple of days of itchy torture.
The peak times for being bitten are around sunrise and sunset. Bear this in mind when coming out of the water after sunset sessions.
Covering up is the best method of prevention, otherwise use a good, 50% deet based mosquito repellent. I use Jungle Formula Maximum. To help relieve the itch I use Afterbite or Tiger Balm.
Nearly all accommodations have a mosquito net over the bed so there’s no need to bring one.
Visa Requirements
Before travelling to Sri Lanka you must obtain an ETA (Electronic Travel Authorisation) which can be done online. This is valid for 30 days but can be extended for up to 6 months once you’re in Sri Lanka (See Extending Your Visa below). It is worth printing a copy of your confirmation to take with you as you may be asked for it. The current fee is $35.
In addition to this, your passport should be valid for at least 6 months from the date of arrival. You may be required to prove that you have sufficient funds to cover the expenses of your trip (a credit card will be fine for this) and you may also be asked to produce a return ticket. I wasn’t asked for either of these but had them just in case.
Always double check the current requirements for your country before you go.
How to Get There
From most countries in the world, you will not be able to fly direct. I flew with Etihad via Abu Dhabi on their A380 which was amazing, and my board went free as part of my checked luggage allowance.
At the moment the only airline flying direct from the UK is Sri Lankan, however this may change in the future as the runway at Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport is currently under construction to accommodate the new A380 and larger aircraft. Everyone I spoke to who had flown Sri Lankan was happy with their flights and surfboards go as part of your free baggage allowance. As a guide, the direct flight from London takes 10h 25m.
Use Skyscanner to play around with flight schedules and to find the cheapest flights.
Money
Where to get it
The currency of Sri Lanka is Sri Lankan Rupees (LKR). It is a closed currency so you can’t buy it until you get to Sri Lanka. When you arrive at Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport you can change money at the bureau de change/bank or withdraw it from the ATMs, both located in arrivals.
As you come through into arrivals after baggage claim you will see the bureau de change/banks in front of you, slightly to the left. For the ATMs keep heading towards the far left wall, they are tucked away on the side of one of the booths. You may need to try different machines as, from memory there were 3 or 4 machines, one didn’t accept foreign cards, and one had a withdrawal limit of Rs 20,000 (£106) so keep going until you find a suitable machine.
Practicalities
The vast majority of shops and restaurants do not accept cards so take this into consideration when deciding how much cash to get. There are ATMs in the main towns in Sri Lanka so getting more cash shouldn’t be an issue, unless you’re going way off the beaten track.
Many places don’t seem to like accepting big notes (Rs 5000) so break them down whenever you get the opportunity. Also, it pays to have the right money for tuk tuks as it’s not unusual for them to ‘not have change’, especially if you’ve haggled the price down.
How to Get From Colombo Airport to Your Destination
Taxi
The easiest option for West coast and especially East coast trips is to pre-arrange a taxi (your accommodation should be able to assist with this). Price wise, a pre-booked taxi to Midigama/Weligama (including boards) should cost around Rs 8,000 (£42) one way, and to Arugum Bay about Rs 20,000 (£106), so use this as a guide if negotiating.
If you haven’t pre-booked, there are taxi counters in arrivals and various other drivers who will try to get your business as you leave the airport. They are relatively expensive though so try to pre-book if possible and definitely try to negotiate.
If you would like to share a taxi to reduce costs, check or post on the Sri Lanka Taxi Share website.
Bus/Train
By far the cheapest option is to take the bus or the train. One important point to note though is that Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport is not actually in the city of Colombo. It’s about 22miles (45 minutes) north in the suburb of Negombo, so if you are planning to take a bus or train you will first need to get to Colombo Fort (see below).
How to Get From Colombo Airport to Colombo Fort
Taxi
A non pre-booked taxi to Colombo will be anywhere between Rs 2,000-4,000 (£11-£21).
Train
To get from the airport to Colombo Fort by train, take a taxi or tuk tuk to Katunayake train station (about 1km from the airport). From here it is just over an hour’s journey to Colombo. To get a tuk tuk turn left when you exit arrivals and head out of the airport grounds.
As this station is near the start of the line, the train shouldn’t be too crowded when you get on so boards are manageable. If you can, put it up on the bars across the carriage (like in the photo below) as the train will fill up as you go. Colombo Fort is the last stop so getting off with your board is easy, just let the train empty out first. The cost is approx Rs 60-120 (£0.30-£0.60).
Bus
You can take an air conditioned bus from outside the airport to Colombo Fort for approximately Rs 120 (£0.60). Turn left out of the airport and walk about 100m to a fenced parking area. Buses leave every 30 minutes.
If you are travelling with your board, getting the bus is hit and miss. It will depend on the size of the board and you may have to wait for another bus to let you on. Don’t even attempt it on the non A/C buses.
How to Get From Colombo Fort to the Southwest Coast
Train
Once at Colombo Fort, you can take the scenic coastal line (Colombo Fort – Matara) to the main surfing towns on the Southwest coast and then get a tuk tuk to your exact destination. Boards can go up on the luggage racks of the train if there is room, and if not, you can stand with your board at the end of the carriage by the door.
If there are no seats on the train, sitting by the open door is an amazing experience, just don’t hang your legs all the way out; you’d be surprised how many train related foot/leg injury stories you hear!
The journey to Weligama takes about 3 hours and costs Rs 220 (£1.15). You can find schedules and other prices on the Sri Lanka Train Schedule website or the Sri Lanka Railways website.
A couple of things to be aware of…Galle station is a dead end so the train pulls in then pulls out in the opposite direction. Don’t panic, you’re still going the right way. Midigama station has a really short platform so if you are in the rear carriages you will need to walk through a few carriages to get off onto the platform.
Bus
The buses in Sri Lanka are not for the faint hearted but they are definitely part of the full Sri Lanka experience, and are the cheapest mode of transport. To get the bus from Colombo go to Pettah bus stand, a short walk from Colombo Fort railway station (or to get on at the main station go to Bastian Mawatha bus station, a short distance away).
You can check timetables and routes on the National Transport Commission website, although most buses seem to make it up as they go along. They are fairly regular though so just wait for one to turn up.
Buses no.2 and 32 travel down the coast, tell the conductor or driver where you want to stop before you get on and they will let you know if you have the right bus.
Most buses in Sri Lanka are usually packed and will not allow you on with a surfboard.
How to Get From Colombo Fort to the East Coast
There is no easy way of getting to the main surfing town of Arugam Bay on the East coast; even by taxi it can be a 6-10 hour journey depending on the time of day.
Bus
To take a direct bus from Colombo to Arugam Bay you will need to travel overnight. This journey takes approximately 7 hours and starts from Colombo Central bus stand. To travel by day you can take a bus to Monaragala, and then take a bus to Pottuvil or Panama, though this option is considerably longer due to traffic.
Train
Taking the train all the way to Arugam Bay is not possible; the journey will involve at least one segment by road and is quite lengthly.
One option is to take the morning train from Colombo to Batticaloa (approx 9 hours), then take the connecting express bus from Batticaloa railway station to Pottuvil (approx 3-4 hours). From Pottuvil you can take a short tuk tuk ride to get to Arugam Bay.
Another option is to take the 9 hour train ride from Colombo Fort to Ella; a beautiful journey through the hill country, and stay overnight in Ella. The following day head to the bus stop in Ella and get a bus to Monaragala, then from Monaragala take the bus to Panama, which stops in Arugam Bay. This part of the journey can take over 5 hours. This option is particularly scenic, but not suitable if you are trying to get to Arugam Bay in one day.
Getting Around in Sri Lanka
Bus
Taking the bus is by far the cheapest way of getting around in Sri Lanka and is definitely something to be experienced, even if only once. The bus network is excellent and takes you pretty much anywhere you could want to go.
To catch the bus from the road, go to one of the marked bays, you can spot them as there should be a blue bus on a signpost and a yellow half box painted on the side of the road. When you see the bus you want (good luck as it’ll likely be travelling at what seems like 100mph) put your arm out and hope for the best.
Not all buses will stop and you may have to wait for several buses, though depending on where you are, they are frequent.
When the bus stops, enter at the rear (quickly) and if possible take a seat. There will be a conductor on the bus to take your money. Try to have as close to the right money as possible as they don’t always have change, especially not for big notes. When you want to get off, there are buttons along the roof of the bus, press one when you’re near your stop and when the bus stops, don’t hang around!
Be aware that taking a board on the bus is a no-go as buses are usually either packed when you get on, or become packed as you travel.
If you have a backpack, try to catch the eye of the conductor as he will know the best place to put it. At the front of the bus there is often a space by the driver. Failing that, if you get on at the rear, there may be a small space between the rear door and the first seat on the left, otherwise you’ll be sitting with it on your lap. For journeys starting and ending in bus stations, the conductor may let you put your pack in a small luggage compartment inside the back of the bus (if the bus has one).
Train
The next cheapest option is the train which, again, is an experience in itself. First class will secure you a seat for your journey and is a comfortable way to travel. Second class is also comfortable though you may not get a seat. If this happens, standing or sitting by the open door is the next best option. Just don’t hang your legs all the way out as injuries are surprisingly common!
If you’re feeling adventurous, try third class, but you will almost definitely be standing in a crowded carriage for most, if not all of your journey.
Boards are ok on the train. If possible, try to get it up on the luggage rack at the earliest opportunity. Backpacks can also go up on the luggage rack, behind the last seat in the carriage, or there is often a small luggage compartment by the door.
The SL Railway app is really useful for planning journeys and finding timetable information.
Stations are not always clearly marked so either ask a local to let you know when you’re near your station (they are all super friendly and happy to help), or keep an eye on your location with an app like maps.me.
Tuk tuk
Tuk tuks (three wheelers) are in abundant supply and are perfect for taking up to 3 people anywhere you want to go directly. Taking boards is no problem; nearly all of them will have some mechanism to strap your board(s) to the roof.
It is useful to have an idea of the going rate to get to your destination as a lot of drivers will ask over and above and then haggle with you down to a more reasonable price. There are always plenty of tuk tuks around so don’t be afraid to walk away if you feel the price is unfair.
Scooter
If you’re feeling brave, you can rent a scooter for around Rs 800-1,000 (£4.20-£5.30) per day. Your accommodation may have them available or should be able to help you source one.
The roads in Sri Lanka are another level of crazy and you may want to wait a little while until you are more familiar with the ‘style’ of driving. It’s not unusual to see a bus overtaking a tuk tuk overtaking a scooter with traffic coming in the other direction and a dog wandering around in the road. It’s pretty nerve wracking!
You supposedly need your International Driving Permit but many people don’t have one and don’t have any problems.
The police have mixed policies on surf racks on scooters and can issue fines of up to Rs 50,000 (£265) to anyone caught riding with one. If you plan on renting a scooter, double check locally what the current situation is.
Vaccinations
Ring your doctor as soon as you know you are travelling to Sri Lanka and ask for advice on vaccinations. I called two months before I travelled to book an appointment and was told that I’d almost left it too late!
The most commonly recommended vaccinations for Sri Lanka are:
Hepatitis A
Typhoid
Tetanus
Rabies
Hepatitis B
In the UK, the top 3 are provided free whereas you will need a private prescription and have to pay for Rabies and Hepatitis B. As a guide, I paid £125 for Rabies and £76 for Hep B but it can vary. They are then administered over the course of a month.
Travel Insurance
This is an absolute must have, especially for a surf trip. Make sure that surfing specifically is covered under the policy. I have mine with World Nomads as the policy was well priced and covers everything I could possibly need it to (including surfing).
Edit: I actually had to claim on my policy for an early flight home and World Nomads paid out quickly and with no problems at all so I can personally recommend them.
Staying Connected
Most places in Sri Lanka offer free wifi but, depending on where you are, connection speeds can be excruciatingly low. Many places have high speed connections based on day and night tariffs.
Once the quota of data has been used up, it switches to a slower connection. So you may find that between 8am and midnight even trying to browse Facebook is mind meltingly frustrating, but overnight it works perfectly. Data allowances refresh at the start of the month so you’ll have high speed all day again until it runs out.
Getting a local sim card is easy and data is super cheap to buy; 6GB of data (split as 2GB day, 4GB night) will only set you back Rs 449 (£2.40) and coverage is surprisingly good (I was able to FaceTime my mum from the top of Adam’s Peak!). I would recommend Dialog 4G. To get a sim card just look out for a Dialog Service Centre in any town.
Take the Right Adapter Plug
Sri Lanka uses a mix of the old style 3 pin round plugs and the UK 3 pin socket. You can buy adapters online or in Sri Lanka. Your guesthouse or hotel may also be able to lend you one.
Pro tip: If you are using an adapter with two pins (like the Euro adapter), and the socket has three holes, you will find that you can’t push it in. Push something into the top hole first to ‘open’ the bottom two holes (I used the jack end of my headphones).
This is due to a safety feature that prevents anything being accidentally inserted into the socket. The top pin is the earth pin so shouldn’t be live but take care and make sure the socket is switched off first.
As well as the adapter, I also brought a power surge protector with me as I’d heard that the power supply can be a bit unpredictable and didn’t want to risk toasting my laptop.
Extending Your Visa
If you are staying in Sri Lanka longer than 30 days, you will need to extend your visa. You can get a further two months when you extend the first time, and then 3 months the second time.
To get an extension, you will need to go to the Department of Immigration & Emigration in Colombo, but be warned, the process can make you give up the will to live! The current cost of a two month extension for UK citizens is $54, but it varies by nationality.
You may also like: 10 Tips for Backpacking Sri Lanka on a Budget
One Last Piece of Advice…
It’s surprisingly easy to ruin your board in the fierce tropical Sri Lankan sun. Don’t leave your board in the direct sunlight…at best you’ll melt your wax, and at worst you may be unlucky enough to delaminate your board (I’ve seen it happen)!
What are your best tips for surfing Sri Lanka?
If you’ve already surfed in Sri Lanka and have any tips of your own, I’d love to hear them…Or if you’d like to know anything else just pop a comment below and I’ll do my best to add it in.
If you found this post helpful or know anyone who is planning on surfing Sri Lanka soon, it would be awesome if you’d share it via the social links below 🙂
Happy travels!
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